Beat the August Chill
It’s been chilly here for the past few days. If we’re lucky, we get a few hours of sun in the morning, spilling over the hill to the East and into our dawn-facing windows and warming the whole flat. Then the fog crests the hill to the West and seeps over the side, through the green belt forest, to smother us in a chilly blanket. I swear the fog leaks through the gaps in the window frames. It was like this on Saturday, when I started the day in a T-shirt but by noon had wrapped myself into a light sweater. Despite it’s being August, the cool air encourages a snug and tasty lunch inside, which is how we ended up at The Alembic in the Haight in the early afternoon.
Between lunch and cocktail hour, the bar was quiet; dim with fog-filtered light from the skylight reflecting off the giant mirror at the back and onto the bar. We chose a table and kept our jackets on while examining the cocktail menu. It’s written as prose so it takes some time to weigh the options. At length, I opted for the “Vieux Carré”.
I realize it was designed for hot weather, but cognac sounded warming and solid. Besides, we were about to order some savoury snacks that would warm the blood. The menu here is, I think, perfectly matched to cocktails that are not shy on alcohol: salty, with lots of innards. Organ meats are tastier, in my opinion, when chased with liquor, bringing out their dark flavours. We started with a nibble of “Jerk spiced duck hearts with pickled pineapple and thyme salt”. Marc’s theory is they take delivery of all the parts the other restaurants don’t want and make something creative with the discounted bits. Perhaps- though with at least ten little hearts skewered on our plate, how many whole ducks is the Bay Area using?
Scrumptious little bites, with a sweet tang from the pineapple. This lit the fire and we ordered two more dishes from the daily specials board: Sweetbreads with potato spuma topped with a quail egg, and Razor clams cooked á la plancha with parsley.
I had never before had razor clams – to what was the clam adapting that it had to become long and narrow? – and spuma was also new to me. I ate it, so I know that it was a light, creamy, almost-bisque of potato; but now, having looked it up, I find that it is Italian for ‘foam’. I’m not sure if this is how it was done with potatoes, but the Food Dictionary on epicuirious.com described a technique where uncooked meringue is folded into the mixture to give it a light and airy texture. Topped with hot sweetbreads that were a little crunchy on the outside and bathed in egg yolk, this was my afternoon favourite. Until we ordered dessert.
The caramelized brioche, with custard and peach-lavender chutney by its side, then became the favourite. Well, maybe a tie with the sweetbreads. It might become necessary for this foray into the Haight to become a weekly ritual, if only to keep up with the specials on the chalkboard.