Un Dia Muy Bonito
One of my most perfect days of travel started when we woke up early to a crisp, sunny day in Puerto Santa Cruz, in Patagonia, and drove an hour straight out to Parque Nacional Monte Leon. 
We stopped first at a lookout over the ocean and the island owned and operated by the migratory cormorants. Guano was mined here for European fertilizer until about 1930 and judging by the smell, the birds have worked hard since then to replenish the supply. Fortunately, we had our trusty binoculars and so were able to see a fair bit of avian activity before setting up our cold breakfast in the picnic hut upwind of the island. After breakfast, we decided to take a crack at seeing los penguinos. I was not optimistic because it was so warm, I thought for sure they’d be on their way someplace cooler now and would have abandoned their colony. Plus, the hike through the desert to reach the colony did not inspire confidence for a viewing. This sign was so randomly placed as to seem a joke.
Nevertheless, we continuted and not 5 minutes from that sign we spotted our first tuxedo. Actually, we spotted something black and white in the distance and then were suprised to actually look around and notice that there were penguins everywhere, within a few meters of where we were standing. It was so odd but they were all camped out under bushes, in the shade and sun, hovering around their nests on the flat, arid plain. A little “Where’s Penguino?” to play.
A little further towards the water’s edge, a look-out platform had been built so that we could see for several kilometers in either direction and right down onto the beach. There were hundreds of penguins – no kidding – all over the place. We were able to get quite close to some but resisted the temptation to step over the barriers and into their territory. The beach was off limits. The guanacos totally ignored the signs and the fences and we caught one of them on the penguins’ side red-handed.
I asked one penguin for a picture in front of the beach panorama. He posed like a Russian: arms straight by the sides, no smile, eyes front, look angry.
After much penguin stalking and spying with the binoculars, we went back to the car for a picnic lunch before hitting the beach at low tide for exploring. The weather was perfect for exploring: bright, sunny and cool. We didn’t get to see the iconic landmark of the part – La Gruta – a hollow rock formation carved out by the sea. It had collapsed. No-one told us.
Finally, we settled into our campsite for a night in the car. As per one of the previous posts, we had a great night with some fantastic sunset and sunrise views, and a middle-of-the-night sighting of the Southern Cross constellation. We’re, like, totally in the southern hemisphere, eh.
This is the kind of day that will be excrutiating to recall when I am home and job hunting.