Sybarites Travel

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Gluttony, cont’d

I would like to say that the majesty of the former residence of Lao Royalty inspired us to crave a more delicate cuisine but I would be lying. It was actually just a question of unbridled gluttony. But the residence was impressive, especially the Limoges china and bohemian crystal. And the antique sideboards in the dining room. (Can you see where this is leading?)

L’Elephant. This is the name of the restaurant at which we melted. They serve French food, impeccable with all the details and ceremony which we love. Marc won the toss so he got to order the duck, with a starter of French onion soup. However, I won in the end with the starter of greens with blue cheese dressing and pork fillet, sauteed wild mushrooms and *swoon* garlic mashed potatoes. Dreamy. Plus wine: exquisite. We went back there twice.

And then there was the Laos restaurant owned by the same group called Three Nagas. With Doug and Amy, we treated ourselves to a traditional Laos feast with stewed water buffalo (for the record: chewy), various savoury soups, minced pork wrapped in lemon grass, and steamed fish stuffed with pork. The laminated article posted outside the restaurant said that this place offered a taste of Laos that is different from Vietnam, different from Thailand or Cambodia and they were right. We could taste Laos in the dishes, taste the unique flavours and the bold meats. Except what we couldn’t taste past the spiciness.

I could go on about the food, about the great espresso that the bakery up the street made, about the fantastic cheeseburger at the sports bar, but I won’t because it would be better to take note of the falls. All tourists who visit Luang Prabang are required to visit Kuang Sy waterfall, about one hour outside of town along one of the dustiest, bumpiest road in existence.

I don’t really know what I was expecting, but it wasn’t this.

It was like something out of a coffee table book of pictures describing what one can see in the jungle. Or like what I imagine the first Europeans, foraging through Indochina, found and then described in letters written home and in voluminous, romantic essays. Though I’m pretty sure that those foraging falang didn’t wear their bathing costumes under their clothes so as to take a dip in the frigid blue water.

It was frigid. It was breath-takingly icy, especially when you put your head under. But the wine that we brought with us up to the falls warmed us right up.

February 17, 2007
Not So Lazy in Laos

After spending three days eating five meals a day in Vientiane, we rolled our bloated bellies into Vang Vieng in mountainous Northern Laos. There is a well lubricated tourist route from Vientiane up to Luang Prabang with a stop at Vang Vieng in the middle. V.V. has got a bit of a reputation for its Westerner-friendly food, its restaurant TVs blasting repeats of Friends and The Simpson’s every night at full volume, and, redeemingly, its outdoor pursuits.

First things first (while, second really, if we count ‘drink wine on the balcony overlooking the river’), the four of us set ourselves up with scooters to explore the town and the surrounding caves. Not that riding a scooter is difficult, but sometimes, riding a scooter can be difficult! This was my first experience with the using of the gears on a motorized bike-type vehicle and there were more than a couple of wobbly starts and jarring down-shifts. Marc insists my driving is better than his; my pride does not allow me to disagree so I was always the pilot.

Anyway, with scooters, we were able to fire out to see a few of the local caves (used as bomb shelters in decades past) and to slide into the organic farm just outside the town for a little vegematarian lunch. Heaven forbid we should go a few hours without eating. Fantastic mulberry shakes. It was fun, though, to see some stalactites and get the legs moving in between bike and table.
At our last cave, we had the option of renting a couple of inner tubes to float into a flooded cave. The water was pretty icy, we had no swimsuits and the sun was sliding behind the mountains so we hesitated on whether or not to go but, in the end, couldn’t say no. Thus, we have the headlamp-wearing tubers cringing in the cold water as we pull ourselves along ropes leading into the cave. It was a chilly 15-min ride but fun nonetheless.

Day 2 we signed on for some rock climbing. Marc and I are novices, Doug is an expert and Amy opted for a day with book by river. Now, Doug is still an expert, Amy is well rested, and Marc and I are bruised but enthusiastic to try climbing again. Our guide took us out to a couple of rock walls located conveniently next to a river bar. (The river bars are set up at regular intervals over 3km for the people who float on inner tubes down the river for an afternoon.)

With quivering muscles, we called it a day around 3:30 so had enough time to relax with a beer on the river before heading back and this is where we witnessed something new. It is the job of one of the guys at the bar to stand out on the river’s edge, a bit upstream from the bar, with a bamboo pole attached to a long rope. As the foreigners – known as ‘falang’ here, a word which came from ‘francais’ when the French were here – float towards the guy, he will toss out the pole so they can grab on and be towed to shore. This is known as “fishing for falang” and was amusing to watch from the bar.

February 5, 2007
Lazy Start to Laos

Oh, those French. I can just imagine the life of leisure in which those colonialists must have drifted while in Vientiane. It’s warm in the day, but pleasantly cool in the evenings, the Mekong drifts slowly by the city and there is no chance of running out of French food.

While we did step out to do a small amount of touristing while in the city – most notably the monument known as the “Vertical Runway” because it was built using concrete donated by the US for building an airport runway – our main focus was truly on the food. There are just too many places to eat, too many cuisines to sample, too many balconies on which to relax and too many cafes in which to chill. We did our best to eat as much as humanly possible while there and were joined by Doug and Amy whom we met a couple months ago in India; it is brilliant to have friends once again.

The top two meals have to go to the the cafe where we ate breakfast three days in a row, and the DaoFa Bistro on one of the main streets in town. The breakfast place served some world-class, buttery, croissants and espresso. After days and days of Vietnamese pho to start the day, to have a little French in the morning made me melt. This place also set us up with a take-away lunch for our bus ride up to Vang Vieng and that meal earns the gold medal in the Lunch on a Bus category: fresh green salad (salad!!) with peppery vinaigrette and fresh, whole baguettes – one with chicken and wild mushrooms and one with real roasted beef, potatoes and grainy mustard. The heretofore gold medal holder was Pringles and oranges so this new champion will surely not be beat.

DaoFa hit dead centre of our weak spot: wine. We had to create a meal between lunch and dinner just so that we could enjoy a little carafe at a sidewalk table. I got a ham and cheese crepe, which was no slouch, but Marc won with the smoked-duck salad with walnuts and prunes. Smoked duck! Prunes! I can’t believe we left Vientiane without going back but there were just too many places and not enough stomach.

February 5, 2007
Tailor Fit

The city of Hoi An is a UNESCO World Heritage Site completely filled, or nearly so, with hundreds of tailor shops. Tourists spend most of their time shopping for clothes or running to fittings as a suit may require three fittings or more. I ordered two suits and Janet ordered one, which required three hours of fittings. A lawyer friend of ours ordered seven or eight suits, which would require an unimaginable number of hours standing in front of the mirror.

At times it was hard to see past the colorful jackets to the beauty of the ancient town. It was easier at night, when the tailor shops dimmed, the restaurants lit up dozens of lanterns and lantern shops seemed to light up with hundreds.

We had a pleasant stay in the town, in part because of the wonderful hotel that was recommended by some other Calgarians. The cleaners placed fresh flowers on the bed each day and silk robes were provided for lazy mornings. The staff at Thanh Thien were very friendly, even waving from the curb as we drove out to the airport.

January 30, 2007
Not Drunk Enough, I’m Afraid

On our first night in Hanoi, we visited Highway 4, a restaurant we happened to come across while wandering in the old quarter of the city. We first flipped through the drink menu and were happy to find some flights of locally distilled liquor for sampling, of which we ordered two. Most of them had interesting flavours like ginger or rose-apple but some were un-finishable, like the one with the name that translates as “one night, five times, give birth to four sons.”

However, so as not to completely pickle ourselves, we ordered some snacks off the tapas menu. We were not, however, nearly hammered enough to order any of the items on this page:

Otherwise, we had a fantastic meal at a French restaurant here called “Cafe des Arts”. It might sound silly to be eating Western food when we have so much good Eastern food to try but I am weak when it comes to foie gras and cheese platters. Thus, we have prune-stuffed filet mignon with foie gras sauce and – heaven! – mashed potatoes, followed by a tray of French cheeses. We ate there twice in three days.

Completely unrelated, here is a picture of Hanoi traffic from our hotel room.

Traffic is a neat mass of confusion. The only way to cross the street as a pedestrian, is to walk slowly across the road while scooters, trucks and cars weave around you. The key is not to stop!
If anybody is interested, I’ve made an attempt at loading video onto YouTube; see a street in Hanoi.

January 30, 2007
Bits of Vietnam

While sitting in a cafe one afternoon, we watched this guy selling goldfish from the back of his bike. At first, it seemed kind of strange because who would be driving by on this busy road, see the guy and think, “Oh yeah, gotta pick up some fish”, then swerve to the curb. Yet, this occurred no less than five times while we were sitting there.

On the first day of our motorbike tour through central Vietnam, one of our guides answered some of our language questions over lunch. Among other things, I was curious about some of the signs I frequently saw whipping by that said “thit cay”. It turns out that this is an advertisement for dog meat for sale. And they weren’t few or far between. Even better were the signs advertising “thit cay to”, puppy meat.

We stayed one night in a small resort just outside of the city of Buon Ma Thuot. Over breakfast the next morning, we watched as some of the construction of the newest part of the resort was underway. At one point, the guy inside the digger that was perched on top of a small mountain of dirt, paused in his loading of a dump truck and beeped the horn. This was a sign for the dump truck driver at the table next to us to take a coffee over to the digger-guy. Carefully balancing the cup, he walked over to the massive shovel and stood inside it. The machine operator then slowly lifted the coffee-bearer up to window height where the cup was passed though the window.

Scooters in Vietnam can be used to transport anything.

We don’t have a picture, but we’ve seen pigs in bamboo baskets strapped to the backs of scooters, too.

We stopped in one tiny village in the mountains to visit some of the Montagnards, the descendants of the earliest inhabitants of Vietnam who used to live independently in the jungle. The kids were especially happy to see us (foreigners = candy) and one little guy peddled his younger sibling over to see us.

Near Lak Lake, we couldn’t stop laughing at this kid who apparently would take a nap wherever he stopped. His mother and aunt were making bamboo baskets nearby.

Outside the city of Hoi An, we learned about a religion known as Cao Dai. I just happened to notice a temple in a village we were passing through and, because it didn’t look like anything I’d seen before, I asked our guide about it and he took us through. The religion is a combination of “the best parts” of Christianity, Buddhism, Confucianism and others. The alter is topped with an all-seeing eye and a painting inside depicts Victor Hugo as one of the saints of the religion. Fascinating to learn about something of which I had never heard.

January 25, 2007
Food Enroute

It has been so rewarding to eat Vietnam with an insider. Our Easy Rider guides were so thoughtful as to order our meals and eat with us each day; that’s how we ate the best food in this country.

Before lunch on our first day, Bang stopped to pick up a few kilos of a fruit I didn’t recognize. It turned out to be passionfruit, our dessert for that meal and the following six. Cut in half, they are eaten with a spoon like pudding. Tart, sweet and juicy.

Along the way. we would stop at small eateries, mostly scrubby little joints with greasy tables and a woodstove in the back. A lot of them had names that were also the address and sometimes someone would be cooking meat over a tiny charcoal BBQ in the front. It was at these places that we would learn that bitter melon soup is eaten at the end of a meal, that tofu can be delicious when it is stuffed with spicy meat, and that crispy, deep-fried chicken can make an outstanding meal.

We also tried honey-barbecued squid stuffed with beef, stir-fried deer meat with morning glory, stewed wild boar, barbecued weasel (I think it was weasel; they didn’t know the English name for the animal but described it as “like a fox with a long nose”), and a fantastic seafood hotpot.

For breakfast one morning, we had Vietnamese steak and eggs, which were cooked as they were brought to the table on a scalding iron hot plate. The steak was actually buried beneath fresh coriander, tomatoes and cucumber and was only one of three different meats on the platter. We figured out pretty quickly that Vietnamese people love meat- I don’t think I’ve ever eaten so much in one week.

Plus, at breakfast, there was always hot, Vietnamese coffee with sweetened condensed milk.

January 25, 2007
Tour of People

In my opinion, one of the best things about travelling is other travellers. If I’m honest, it is also one of the worst things, too. I cringe from embarrassment as I watch travelling jackasses behave ignorantly and/or disrespectfully to people in a different country. However, more often than not, I love meeting random people and finding out where they’re from, where they’re going and collecting opinions on destinations. It’s so easy to strike up a conversation with other people on the road* and especially easy to have a good laugh if we’re all in the midst of a harrowing journey. How else, other than travelling, would we ever have had the opportunity to meet so many people from other countries? Dutch, Italian, Israeli and Spanish in India, Brits in Mongolia, Germans, Koreans, Japanese and Australians in Vietnam, South Africans in Thailand, and an endless stream of Canadians. Most recently, we met two other Calgarians while swimming in a river in the mountains of Vietnam. She and I grew up in the same quadrant of the city.

As an interesting side note, most of the people that we run into and spend time with seem to be of the same demographic as we: couples who are in their early thirties who have quit their jobs to travel long term around the world. Relatively speaking, nobody is rich or has a trust fund or any such pool of cash, but that hasn’t seemed a deterrent. Like attracts like and I guess that’s why we connect so well with these travellers and keep in touch in case we are able to cross paths again. And always, any extended conversation between any four of us will devolve into “the worst bathroom in the world” competition.

One recommendation that we got from several other people who had been to Vietnam was to go on an Easy Rider tour. Actually, it was less a recommendation and more an insistence because the tour is universally beloved among travellers. In the mountain town of Dalat, there is a club of about 70 guys who offer guided motorcycle tours of Central Vietnam. Actually, for $50 per day, they’re willing to take tourists pretty much anywhere they wish to go inside the country. We weren’t in Dalat one hour before we approached by one of these fellows and offered a tour, so it was easy for us to arrange a six day trip through the mountains, along part of the old Ho Chi Minh Trail and ending on the coast. **

Now that we’ve arrived safe and sound in Hoi An, I must say that this was one of the best and most interesting things we have done anywhere in the world in the last nine months. Our two guides, Bang and Thiet were friendly, English-speaking, knowledgeable fellows who had a pile of information to share about the people of Vietnam, the traditions of the cultures in the mountains, the language, the war and just about anything else we wanted to know. We stopped frequently to visit silkworm farms, coffee farms, a silk-making factory, a mushroom farm, old mountain villages, and national parks. Really, it was like nothing we had ever done before and such a brilliant experience. Because we were travelling by motorbike, we not only got to see so much more of the country than we would have while travelling by bus, but we were able to meet some of the people along the way. That was my favourite part.

(The woman squatting down in this picture is nearly 100 years old.)

* I have to add a note here to say that it is humbling that so many other people in the world speak English as a second (or third, or fourth!) language.
** If anyone reading this is inclined to take the tour, email us and we’ll give you the names and email addresses of two of the best EasyRider guides. They’ll arrange tours by email and even do a pick-up right from an airport.

January 25, 2007
Sometimes, I’m Not Brave Enough

I think it’s safe to say that, while on this journey, Marc and I have been pretty open minded about the food we’ve eaten. Some of the nerds who have been reading this blog since we left will recall that we’ve tasted fresh, curried, goat in Rajasthan, century eggs in Hong Kong, betel leaves in Gujurat, beef spine in Korea, and – lest we forget – fermented horse’s milk in Mongolia. All of these things required a certain degree of bravery, a certain forced ignorance of the contents of our mouths as we chewed and swallowed.   But sometimes, we just don’t possess the courage to eat the unusual.

Most recently, as we travel through a region whose inhabitants will glean sustenance from almost anything, we’ve come across a few things that have proved too much for our sissy Western palates. There were the fried tarantulas being sold by a couple of women at one of the rest stops on our bus journey from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh (I wasn’t even brave enough to take a photo, let alone taste one); there were the crispy, deep-fried locusts which, again, I couldn’t bring myself to try; and the fertilized duck eggs.   On menus in Vietnam, we’ve seen ‘Fried Mouse with Onion’, ‘Fried Pork Hearts’, ‘Chopped Snake’, and a whole section dedicated to eels. But who am I to judge what is or isn’t edible? At home, I eat oysters, snails, beef carpaccio and American cheese. Thus, until I have tried any of these Asian menu items, I am just a pot calling a kettle black.

When we do get past the fried mouse though, there are some tasty things to be had in restaurants and from street vendors hereabouts.   We had a fantastic $0.80 lunch of BBQ pork with spicy vegetables and rice from a street vendor in Cantho, several marvelously delicious Vietnamese iced-coffees (we are up to 3 per day now),   and bright, fresh salad rolls dipped into spicy, peanuty, vinegar sauce.

It’s hard to prove but there seems to be an inverse relationship between the seediness of a food stand/restaurant and the brilliance of the food it produces: the seedier the joint, the more tasty the food. For example, on our first night in Saigon, we made it a priority to find and procure a decent bottle of wine to enjoy on the balcony unexpectedly attached to our room in the guest house. But what to consume with the wine?   After eating out so many times and for so long, there are times when we just want to stay in, and this was one of those times. So, imagine how pleased we were to see a woman with a stall a block from our place selling Vietnamese sub sandwiches for $0.40.   Even better, there were a bunch of locals beating a path to her stall which is always a good sign. We stepped right up to order two and watch as the fresh baguettes were filled with crisp veggies, a little soft, French cheese, and several kinds of unidentifiable meats and sauces. When we got back to our balcony, I admit that I did open the baguettes and pick out the chunks of pork fat but otherwise, to quote Marc, “Those were the best forty-cent sandwiches I’ve ever had.”

Also of note, are the frog’s legs and the pho (pronounced like the ‘fu’ in ‘full’), a lovely, beefy soup with rice noodles, fresh basil and lime. How could we visit Vietnam and not have pho at least once every two days?   The version to beat is the one I had today at a place called Pho 2000 where, according to the prominently displayed photos, Bill Clinton visited for lunch. His people must have known the right people in order to find this joint.

The frog’s legs with mushrooms and garlic were something that Marc ventured to order while we were in Cantho. I tried my first-ever bite of amphibian thigh and agreed that it tasted of chicken but with the delicate texture of a fish; quite remarkable, actually. The wine that he ordered, however, could be described as “grape juice with added alcohol” or as “a cross between a wild-berry vodka cooler and prison wine”.   Vietnam can cook a mean frog leg but it’s got a ways to go in the wine department. I guess French colonialism can only penetrate so far.

January 11, 2007
National Treasures

Angkor Wat

Angkor Beer

January 11, 2007